I moved to Rome in search of the dolce vita but discovered its dark underbelly

Always wanted to live in Rome? Here’s what it’s really like to move to the Italian capital.

“Welcome to the jungle!”

It was these four words, uttered by a burly taxi driver picking me up at Rome’s railway station, that greeted me to the Italian capital, where I decided to move for my PhD research two years ago.

As an Italian by birth and Brit by upbringing, I’d returned to my homeland with giddy optimism, but with a clear warning – as any Roman will gleefully tell you, it’s not a city for the faint-hearted.

Social media would have you think otherwise. In everything from sun-drenched Tik Tok videos to Netflix

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