It’s dark days over at Alexander McQueen. According to Reuters, the brand, which is owned by Kering, is set to layoff a third of their Italian employees in an attempt to break even after years a declining sales.
Currently, McQueen employs around 180 workers in Italy. A union representative told Reuters that the brand’s planned restructuring could have serious repercussions for the brand’s Italian supply chain.
Union leaders are set to meet with Kering’s CEO, Luca De Meo, on February 5, but things do not look good. Sales over the last three years are down 60 percent and apparently McQueen management has described the situation as an emergency.
The layoffs are part of a Kering-wide effort to return the group to profitability over the next three years. The luxury industry on the whole has been in decline recently, but Kering has suffered particular losses with declining demand across many of their brands, not just McQueen. The situation is no doubt exacerbated by the recent bankruptcy of Saks Global — parent company of Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman — which owes Kering millions of dollars for unpaid invoices the company may never see.
Although in their statement to Reuters Kering said that it “fully supports McQueen in its ongoing strategic transformation” and is confident the measures will strengthen McQueen’s position in the global luxury market, one can’t help but wonder what else is in store for the struggling brand.
Expectations were high when Kering appointed Seán McGirr to the role of creative director of Alexander McQueen in 2023, following the departure of designer Sarah Burton for Givenchy. McGirr is a graduate of Central Saint Martins (alma mater of McQueen and Burton) and held design positions at Burberry, Dries Van Noten, and JW Anderson where he was head of ready-to-wear before joining McQueen.
Sean McGirr
McGirr’s first collection for the brand received a somewhat… tepid response from the fashion press. And although his offerings have certainly improved since then, his red carpet looks have often lacked the drama, opulence, and general wow factor one would hope to see from McQueen. With the brand set to show their Fall 2026 womens wear show in a matter of weeks, the pressure is mounting for the talented Irishman to deliver designs that might finally turn things around. Here’s hoping he can do it!
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