9 p.m. Follow a night stroll with mezcal and worm salt
Stray from the city’s busiest tourist district and head southwest from the Plaza Grande, the main square, to Parque de San Sebastián, a plaza that is the lively heart of one of Mérida’s oldest Maya neighborhoods and often busy with Zumba classes, carnival games, marching band practice and religious processions. From there, walk back to the adjoining La Ermita neighborhood to find offbeat tattoo shops, closet-size galleries, vegetarian restaurants and street art. Stop into Autogiro de la Ermita, a new-school cantina with exposed stone walls, yellowing lucha libre posters, and sometimes a keyboardist playing tropical dance music or
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