When asked about the style of cooking at his restaurant, Kadeau, Nicolai Nørregaard responds with an explanation of the terrain, soil composition and microclimates of Bornholm, the Danish island where it’s located. (The short version: varied and rocky, lush and mineral-rich, and warmer for longer than the rest of the country.) It’s a cuisine with terroir.
“Of course, it has roots in Nordic cuisine,” says Nørregaard. “But ‘What is New Nordic cuisine?’ is a good question. I mean, obviously, we’ve also been a part of forming that”—he believes that Kadeau was the second or third after Noma to embrace that rigorous style of cooking—“so what we do
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