The city of San Sebastián in northern Spain curls along the edge of a semicircular bay that forms part of the Bay of Biscay—itself a sort of gruff, spitting chunk of the Atlantic Ocean that rewards sailors just by letting them survive. Whereas the city center facing the ocean is mostly flat, the outskirts look attractively pastoral—where sheep flocks graze along green slopes beside wooden farmhouses that appear Tyrolean.
To appreciate this city of almost 190,000 residents, begin by walking. Coastal stretches, harbor walls and trails curling around a peak invite exploration. Old town—at the base of Mount Urgull—is similar to Italy’s Genoa in being both charming and architecturally
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