When chef Dennis Ngo was coming up through the ranks of New York City restaurants, the answer to a boss’s demands, no matter how inconvenient, was always, “Yes, chef.”
Now, though Ngo helms Di An Di, a Vietnamese restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, he is still catering to the people in power, only this time they are his employees. He sometimes wonders what happened.
His employees tell him, “The culture shifted, bro.”
As labor shortages continue for the city’s restaurants, the balance between workers and their employers has shifted.
To find and retain the talent they need to stay in business, employers have been increasing wages. If that
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