12 p.m. Ride the rails
Hordes of travelers line up every day in Martim Moniz Square to ride the venerable yellow Tram 28, famous for its 50-minute journey across Lisbon and the points of interest it passes. Do not join them. Instead, board the nearly empty Tram 12E from the same spot. It features the same mustard-colored paint job, the same wood-lined interior and the same creaky seats but offers a more rapid, less cliché and less claustrophobic sightseeing experience. Over roughly 30 minutes, it careens through the multiethnic Mouraria neighborhood, past the commanding views of the lookout point at Largo das Portas do Sol, down through the
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