What People Are Saying About Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Debut at Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi debut was probably the most hotly anticipated show of the season, so, of course, anyone and everyone has been writing about it.  Here’s what they’ve been saying.

Vanessa Friedman for The New York Times
“[When] the first look appeared — a loose, airy, black shirtdress under a black jacket — it became clear this was going to be a collection heavy on the basics and light on the big ideas.”

“If unity was to be found on the runway, it was in the interchangeable nature of the pieces on both men and women:… Here a faded Canadian tuxedo for him; there a faded Canadian tuxedo for her.”

“There was plenty here for people to wear. What there wasn’t was anything to make it identifiably Fendi.”

Of Chiuri’s use of upcycled fur from Fendi’s storerooms and archives she wrote: “That has the makings of a genuinely great idea.”

Robert Williams for Business of Fashion
“[A] collection that stood out for its restrained palette and surprisingly sober take on a house that has long been known for its playful, colourful angle on Italian glamour.”

“While it’s unclear how much practically banishing colour from the runway will advance the fashion agenda, what the restrained palette did achieve was to spotlight silhouette, which has rarely been the focus at a house best known for its lush textures, patchwork Baguettes and monogrammed merch.”

“If Fendi may have lacked an ultra-clear, recognisable silhouette, Chiuri does not.”

“If clarity was certainly not lacking in the designer’s debut, drama and surprise were hardly the order of the day.”

Miles Socha for WWD
“[The collection was] shy on fashion thrills but strong on realistic, approachable and well-crafted classics — and without the luxury overload you sometimes felt from the Roman house.”

“Much of the collection was black, which you could read as sober and soigné, or safe and salable.”

“Overall, the accessories were as straightforward and familiar as the clothes, including a bevy of heavily embellished Baguette bags, which came out shortly after Chiuri first joined Fendi in 1989 at age 24.”

Camille Freestone for Harper’s Bazaar
Freestone described the collection as a “sea of simplicity” and “a procession of beautifully constructed pieces that didn’t jest for Instagram attention but instead purred for affection.”

“The legacy Chiuri has built for herself through her stewardship of Valentino with Pierpaolo Piccioli and then Dior is one of fashion that serves women. In an era where very few female designers helm major labels, it’s refreshing to see clothes that feel easy to wear. They celebrate the body rather than contorting it for the sake of new directional concepts.”

Lucy Maguire for Vogue
“The co-ed collection, designed by the women’s and men’s design teams, featured many of Chiuri’s codes, recognizable from her time at Dior. Those included long ballet skirts, plenty of black lace, and laser-cut leather, albeit with a sexier Roman edge.”

Maguire devoted much of her review to discussing Chiuir’s commercial success while at Dior, as if to say that whatever one might think of the clothes they are likely to sell. “[From 2016 to 2025, Chiuri] roughly quadrupled Dior’s revenues, from €2.2 billion in 2017 to €9 billion in 2024, according to LVMH earnings.”

“Despite her commercial success, Chiuri has been met with mixed reviews throughout her career, which, as she explained to Leitch, probably wouldn’t happen to a male designer who’d sold so many clothes.

Judging by this quote from Chiuri, which Maguire also included in her review, the designer has little interest in creating clothes that entertain the masses: “Everybody started to speak about fashion. Because fashion became more popular, there were not only journalists and people who know about fashion speaking about fashion. The impact of all these voices was very strong, but not all the time positive. I think part of it became an entertainment. But in the end, it [fashion] is not that.”

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa (via Vogue)
“For the global luxury client, the collection offers a reassuring sense of continuity while introducing a refreshed emotional energy. Her established following from Dior will undoubtedly recognize her codes and feel compelled by this new chapter, particularly in the US market, where her aesthetic has historically performed strongly.”

Francesca Ragazzi, head of editorial content at Vogue Italia (via Vogue)
“I loved the lightness, the softness, and the new take on the accessories, and I’ve never seen the Fendi girl look so rock‘n’roll.”

Simon Longland, director of buying and fashion at Harrods (via Vogue)
“It is compelling to see the Fendi men’s and women’s collections unified as a coherent whole under a single, unwavering vision.”

“For Harrods, the standout opportunities are found in the lace, leather, and intricate embroidery across dresses and separates; these pieces perfectly capture the intersection of heritage craftsmanship and contemporary sophistication that our clients demand.”

Edward Buchanan, designer and journalist (via Vogue)
I thought that there were some beautiful clothes there, but I think I walked out without an idea of what her Fendi is.

Caroline Issa, editor-in-chief at Tank (via Vogue)
I was pleasantly surprised because it felt like a real palate cleanser, with most of the looks starting in black. I’m excited to see what comes next, but I thought it was a great first collection.

Jess Cartner-Morley, fashion editor, The Guardian (via Vogue)
“I thought it was great, really strong… It’s great to have her back.”

Angela Baidoo for The Impression
“Within the collection there was a welcome cohesiveness across the men’s and women’s looks (as both categories will now sit under her creative direction) that has not been seen at the brand for several seasons, making the choice to stage a co-ed show a smart one.”

“Embedded with the ease of uniformity, oversized parkas, cargo Bermuda shorts, longline Donkey jackets, and flight suits will likely be commercial hits, appealing across the aisles. Yet they needed something more definitive applied – from a design perspective – in order to set them apart as Fendi. With the market awash with brands who do a similar job at a more accessible price point.”

“From the masculine tailoring to the decorative lace, the ultra-feminine dresses, and of course the slogan T-shirt’s, today’s fall collection was sprinkled throughout with Chiurisms that may need to be fully reconciled with more Fendi-isms for her to define her tenure.”

Faran Krentcil for Elle
“Like those old friends, these clothes want to stick with you for a long, long time.”

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