It’s a truism in travel writing that the best places are the hardest to get to. But on a recent visit to Tuscia, in northern Lazio where it nuzzles up against Tuscany and Umbria, I realized that sometimes the best places are the ones everyone skips over in their rush to get to the famous ones.
To be clear, Tuscia is not part of Tuscany, despite their confusingly (to North American ears) similar names. But it shares a lot of features with that far more famous—and touristed—region: rolling landscapes, farmhouse hotels, historic homes, wine production and excellent food. Antonello Mancini Caterini, the current owner of Castello
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