After Superstorm Sandy, Matt Kliegman sent a text message to fellow restaurateur Noah Bernamoff to see if he needed help. The storm’s flooding had submerged the commissary kitchen that Bernamoff had just created in Red Hook, Brooklyn.
After Kliegman’s friendly offer, the two owners, who were neighbors on Bond Street in Manhattan, began meeting monthly. Kliegman’s branch of The Smile was about 10 doors down from Bernamoff’s Montreal-style deli, Mile End. Over beers, the conversation eventually turned to bagels.
“I was a bagel brat,” Kliegman said, meaning he would walk blocks out of his way to find the right one, “and Noah was baking very good bagels at
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