Rajasthan road trip: My journey off the beaten track in India’s most colourful region

Besides the glow of flames licking our faces from the fire pit, there are no lights around us for miles save for the constellations above our heads. Every so often, shooting stars streak like silent fireworks across the night sky, distracting me from the task at hand.

Soft, floury dough droops between my fingers as I do my best to mimic our desert-dwelling hosts who swirl and pinch theirs to make chapatis for a starlit dinner.

The camels that ferried us here through the brush and sand of the Thar Desert grunt somewhere out in the darkness enveloping us.

Out there, too, are a clutch of small temples we passed to get

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