Michelin in Serbia: which restaurants will make the grade in Belgrade?

Belgrade. An oxymoronic city. It deteriorates as it develops. Smashed facades from NATO bombings in the 90s expose wall cladding and breeze blocks just as, minutes away on the city’s two great rivers, opulent new flats are eternally constructed. The spectre of Serbia’s troubled and troublesome past juxtaposed with riverside penthouses – a symbol of how the nation is so very much between worlds, even now.

The cuisine of the Serbian capital is similarly poised between universes. Tradition now has to occupy culinary space with innovation, and in a city with so many historical influences, this can only make Belgrade a fascinating destination for foodies.

As a food lover, I always

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