Mosul is most commonly known as a battleground, not a tourist destination.
The city was famously captured by Islamic State fighters in June 2014, teeing up years of conflict between militants and the Iraqi Armed Forces.
But after it was finally liberated in July 2017, locals set about reshaping the public image of this much-maligned city.
Now even tourists are coming to stay.
“I was sure I would find a very pure country, not ruined by mass tourism,” says Yvette Carnell, a first-time visitor from Portugal.
“I always wanted to see what had happened here and to better understand it. It’s very moving to come to Mosul and see how people are dealing with
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