New York City is a masa desert. And every food enthusiast knows it.
But sometime in late April I found myself in Brooklyn’s Bed-Stuy neighborhood to visit the lone place where tortillas are made the way God intended—For All Things Good, a 2021 recipient of a Michelin Bib Gourmand. And let me tell you, it was well worth the trek.
The restaurant—which specializes in niche prehispanic Oaxacan dishes such as tlayuditas, tetelas, memelas, and tlacoyos—is a tiny inconspicuous space that grinds its own masa by way of a traditional molino, from a variety of heirloom Mexican corn. At first glance it’s evident that this is not your run-of-the-mill
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