Le Coucou — NYC’s best new restaurant in decades — is finally back

Le Coucou, the city’s best new restaurant of the past two decades, is the last of our great eateries to reopen after lockdown. I’m thrilled to report that the gracious temple to French cuisine is even more magnifique than it was before the pandemic struck in March of 2020.

The 80-seat eye- and palate-popper within SoHo’s 11 Howard hotel began welcoming guests back on Nov. 18 — later than Le Bernardin, Jean-Georges, Restaurant Daniel, Marea, Per Se or Masa. There were good economic and staffing reasons for the go-slow, and the wait was worth it.

Le Coucou’s airy, brick-framed, romantically chandeliered dining room hasn’t changed an iota. White tablecloths still adorn

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