In 2016, drawn by the smell of Easter cookies, I ventured into a small bakery in the village of Olympos, on the Greek island of Karpathos. The owner, a woman named Kalliope, was going about her work while wearing what looked to me like a traditional costume.
After chatting for a minute or two, I asked if she was dressed this way because it was Easter.
“What do you mean?” she asked. “These are my clothes.”
“You are the one,” she added, “who is dressed in a European costume.”
Despite having grown up in Athens and traveled extensively throughout Greece, I had never before come across a community in which people wore such
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