Adrift in the Venetian Lagoon

For his Saint Laurent spring 2022 men’s wear collection, Anthony Vaccarello mined the past for an indefinite future.

Was it the Anne Rice-style casting? Or the banal installation by the artist Doug Aitken? Was it the anachronistic clothes themselves, with their lazy nods to other eras and periods, that left a viewer with the sense that the Saint Laurent men’s wear show — like the mirrored sets on which it was held — stood as an inadvertent emblem of much that has gone amiss in the fun house of the design world, where images without identifiable source are reflected endlessly back to themselves?

The show was held this week on the

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